Manhattan seems an odd place to start my search for the inspiration behind the greatest American novel, Moby-Dick. Cobbled lanes run through the early 19th-century terraces of Beacon Hill, and North End could pass for a small Italian town. Though Boston has a typically US skyline, thanks largely to its financial district, many of its streets and neighbourhoods feel more European and date back to the 17th century. New houses, shops and parks are filling the spaces left, making even greener the city that already has a chain of interconnecting parks known as the Emerald Necklace. The family friendliness extends to tailored activity packages for children of different ages but, in keeping with a place that demands stuffy dress codes, children are less welcome in public areas in the evening.The damageDoubles start at US$474 (£250) per night, half-board.The addressThe Greenbrier, White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia (00 1 304 536 1110; www.greenbrier ).. Birthplace of the American revolution, John F Kennedy and Dunkin’ Donuts, Boston has a longer and richer history than most cities in the US. It is also one of the most attractive, especially now that The Big Dig – a huge undertaking designed to re-route the once elevated section of the city’s arterial motorway underground – has been finished.
Most guests hardly venture out, though, with cookery classes, horse riding, golf (there are several courses and a golf academy), an eight-lane bowling alley, indoor and outdoor pools and a 300-seat cinema all available on site.The accessWheelchair accessible. If this was an out-of-town episode of Sex and the City, it would be Charlotte and Trey booking in rather than Carrie and Mr Big.The areaUnless you’re an American history buff there aren’t a lot of specific attractions in the immediate vicinity. The Greenbrier is good on traditional but not so good on cool, and neither are its guests. All boast the usual luxury amenities, but this is no characterless corporate monster. Each room is individually designed (the hotel was redecorated by interiors whizz, Dorothy Draper, in the 1940s and retains the look today with bright, chintz prints and quirky-but-elegant furniture). There are also around 100 fully serviced cottages, houses and apartments dotted through the grounds.The bathroomAll are en-suite and come with cosy towelling robes.
Not one for cosmetics junkies, though; the resort recently gave up Neutrogena toiletries in favour of nondescript own-label products.The food and drinkThere are several caf? bars and restaurants. While the food (and drink) are good, finding some atmosphere can be a little harder. Unless your idea of the perfect evening is hanging out in the bar of a cross-channel ferry, definitely give “Slammin’ Sammy’s” sports lounge a wide berth.The peoplePearls Jumpers tied over shoulders Velvet headbands Navy blazers. While other resorts have fallen by the wayside, the Greenbrier is still way up there, soothing the most glamorous of frazzled brows and offering one of America’s prime networking opportunities.
The USPThe history.
