If necessary, reheat the griddle and apply another coat of oil.A proved griddle should not need to be washed again, but straight after use wipe it clean with kitchen paper and a sprinkling of salt. A baking griddle needs to be moderately, but not searingly, hot before you use it – whether you grease it just before use each time is a matter of preference – but remember that you are baking food, not frying it. Think of a Breton crepe-maker pouring thin batter on to a hot cast-iron griddle, spreading it with a slim wooden paddle, and in no time producing a paper-thin pancake.Meat and vegetables can also be cooked on a flat griddle. Better though, for cooking savoury food, is a ridged griddle. Place over a medium heat and after two to three minutes pour a little vegetable oil – not olive oil – over its surface.
Spread with a piece of cloth tied to the end of a wooden spoon, and heat until smoking hot. Scour the cooking surface with fine wire wool and detergent, then rinse in cold water and dry well. New griddles are once again stocked by hardware and cooking equipment shops, and perfectly sound, old, blackened griddles can be found among kitchen antiques.Cast iron remains the best material since it does not buckle, and behaves like a hotplate, absorbing and retaining heat. Heavy-gauge anodised- aluminium griddles are also produced, some with a low rim – though in my experience cast iron is preferable.Unless coated with a non-stick surface, a new griddle needs to be washed and proved before use. In houses with no bread oven, a griddle was the only way to bake.
It’s worth remembering that much of the renown- ed baking of the British Isles has always been done this way – though the griddle now is more likely to be heated on a hob than over an open fire.Our growing interest in the simple, unpretentious cooking of our grandmothers has brought the griddle back into favour. Usually made from a flat circle of heavy cast iron, a baking griddle either has a straight handle on one side, or a half-hoop handle over the top.
For centuries, the griddle was the traditional utensil on which flat breads, scones and pancakes were baked; a large loaf needing longer cooking could be baked on a griddle provided it was covered with an upturned pan to contain the heat. Then I put the frying pan on top and when it was hot I cooked the breakfast eggs and bacon. I gave up using it when we got electricity 30 years ago.”
In some parts of Britain, a brandreth is known as a baking iron because it was used more often with a griddle, or in Scotland, a girdle. Put into a screw-capped jar, seal and shake to mix, taste, and adjust seasoning. Spoon over the cheeses, cover and leave for at least an hour before serving.. Cooking over an open fire was customary in old Devon farmhouses as recently as a decade or so ago.
When my neighbour married in 1946, she was given a brandreth. This kind of trivet for supporting a cooking pan has been in use in Britain for 1,000 years. Recovering her wedding-present from the corner of a bar, my neighbour explained how it worked: “Every morning I used to rekindle the fire and place the brandreth over it. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until lightly browned.MARINATED PARMESAN AND MOZZARELLA WITH GARLIC, CAPERS AND LEMONA sensational first course which is delicious served with ciabatta breadServes 4-61 buffalo-milk mozzarella150-200g/5-7oz ParmesanFor the dressing:5 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon lemon juicefinely grated zest of 1 lemon1 garlic clove, crushed2 tablespoons small capers2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsleysalt and pepperSlice the mozzarella and Parmesan and arrange alternately on a serving dish.To make the dressing, whisk the oil into the lemon juice slowly Stir in the remaining ingredients. Sprinkle over the mango slices with about two-thirds of the remaining sugar Leave to marinate for a few minutes, or up to an hour Lay the slices snugly in an oval gratin dish Beat the cream with the egg and pour over Let it settle and sprinkle with remaining sugar. Using a sharp knife, slice the unpeeled mangoes, cutting down towards the stones and easing off the slices, gradually working your way along and around the stones Trim the skin off and put the slices in a bowl Slit open the cardamom pods and extract the black seeds Crush to a powder with a little of the sugar. Dust with a little cinnamon or icing sugar before serving.MANGO AND CARDAMOM GRATINServes 4-62 medium-sized mangoes4 green cardamom pods75g/212oz castor sugar250ml/8fl oz creme fraichePre-heat the oven to 350F/180C/Gas 4.
That, and the explosion of the British restaurant scene which has lifted London into the position of being one of the world’s major restaurant destinations.We’ve become so voracious in our hunger for new tastes and sensations; we’ve plundered France and Italy, and we’re busily sweeping up the rest of the Mediterranean. We continue to hoover up treasures from India and the Far East, and we’re not averse to stealing from the New World, stocking up on their dried and fresh chillies.Fine for restaurants, you might think But can an ambitious home cook keep up? Ask Sophie Grigson. Pour the custard into the pastry case and bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until the custard is set but still has a hint of a wobble in the centre This is best eaten warm. Strain the remainder into the mascarpone, add the lime zest and juice and mix thoroughly but don’t overwork. Strain a little of the mixture on to the mascarpone and beat in to slacken it.
